The autumn/winter 2015 Menswear show season may well be looked back on as the moment when fashion got serious. Brands across the four main fashion capitals seemed desperate to show off their ethical credentials and social awareness.
Style was not compromised in this eco-friendly engagement particularly when it came to the Ermenegildo Zegna show that kicked off Milan Fashion Week. Zegna is a favourite of executives and fashionistas while new creative director Stefano Pilati has brought a new dimension to the Italian superbrand: “After talking to industry experts on sustainable fabrics, Pilati settled on Harris Tweed” Style.com Jan 15th 2015 Photos below.
More eco-statements were on show at London Collections Men where fine-knitted jumpers with motifs of plastic bags projected slogans like “thanks for nothing". The special environmental testimonial by designer Christopher Shannon was a punkish indication that the fashion industry is getting more engaged with society at large.
Back to the Clo Mor. Margaret Howell has never really done trendy fashion and her London show relied on the well-cut and well-loved classic soft, utilitarian lines using well produced fabric including our very own Harris Tweed. There are stlll few things more eco-friendly in fashion than a last-a-lifetime Harris Tweed jacket. Photos below.
Like the Fringe at The Edinburgh Festival, the jamboree of bloggers, stylists, print journalists and fashion executives sashaying around the catwalk shows are proving to be even more influential and entertaining than the main events. Dapper gents and chic ladies on their way (or outta my way in some cases) to the shows draped in styles that are immediately amplified through social media.
The entire industry spectrum is being blurred and there is no better personification of this zeitgeist than Nick Wooster. A former buyer and stylist Mr Wooster has teamed up with Italian fabrication powerhouse Lardini to produce an exquisite collection of Tweeds and knits. Naturally The Shawbost Mill was his first stop for “that burst of unique Harris Tweed colour set against some classic herringbones and Glen Checks” Nick Wooster and Harris Tweed Hebrides' Mark Hogarth pictured.
The Japanese will show their collections in Tokyo over the next few weeks but the Koreans are fast proving that there is more to their exporting prowess than Gangnam style. Classic outerwear is given a seventies New York upscale by Munn and gilets by Bastong (pictured below) formed part of a collective that earned praise from international press and buyers at Pitti Uomo in Florence.
Appreciation of Harris Tweed and careful attention to detail (RIRI zips and cashmere trims) bodes well for the future of the Korean fashion industry and their respect for our fabric makes for a promising partnership.
Green may be the new black and the pavement the new catwalk but Harris Tweed remains unchanged. That our proud fabric remains so respected and ubiquitous in a changing industry reflects great credit on the mill workers and weavers who contribute their skills to create product that lasts a lifetime… or two. Our sustainable fabric to the world.
Black Friday is a distant memory and the Christmas shopping marathon has entered the final frantic week so it is time to focus on special presents for special people.
There is great variety of Harris Tweed collections on and off the high street this year. From novelty creations on Etsy to classic gents jackets at John Lewis and Hipster friendly options in plain browns and deep checks from Topman pictured below.
2014 is stronger than ever for classic ladies blazers and hacking jackets. Next (picture below) have a simple but well cut jacket suitable for work and play. The Edinburgh Woolen Mill can be found in most high streets across the UK and Harris Tweed Hebrides have new stock available at both the Edinburgh Boutique - 495 Lawnmarket - and the Stornoway flagship at 25 North Beach.
High-end designer collections have been widely featured by fashion journals and if you were looking for a one-off collectors item then the patchwork jacket by Beams would be a great present or indeed a solid investment. The jackets below are available at Mr Porter and not bad value at £300.
If you are unsure of sizes or taste then accessories and luggage may be a safer alternative. M&S have a really well finished holdall (picture below) and Walker Slater and Harris Tweed Hebrides have an array of bags and accessories to fit the most discerning.
Despite so much shopping being done on-line, there is perhaps one area where the high street (only seven days left!) still reigns; furniture. Harris Tweed Hebrides’ partner Tetrad has quality sofas and chairs available at stockists throughout the UK. Classic designs by Barker and Stonehouse and John Lewis have room for all the family will last for life not just for Christmas, Monty the penguin would surely approve.
WHILE the rest of us try to decide on a winter coat — or whether we can just get away with the old one, one more time — staff at the mill in Shawbost have been busy completing orders for samples of fabric from designers thinking about using tweed in their collections for the winter season 2015/16.
IF the Hattersley weaving loom is an icon of the heritage days of Harris Tweed, then so is the spinning wheel.
It has been replaced by modern machinery long since, but once upon a time this traditional piece of equipment was completely essential to the making of Harris Tweed. During the spinning stage the loosely formed wool was — and still is — turned into a workable single ply yarn strong enough for weaving.
The old spinning process has been beautifully captured by Edinburgh artist Davy Macdonald in one of the eight paintings in his recent collection, ‘Harris Tweed — An Inspiring Heritage’. Entitled Spinning the Yarn, the picture (shown below) was inspired by famous Harris weaver Marion Campbell at her Saxony spinning wheel.
In those days, spinning wool was very labour intensive but there was never anything mundane about the spinning wheel itself, which has featured in fairy tales and folklore the world over for hundreds of years.
There is no such mystique about the ‘new’ spinning frame machinery — introduced to the islands when the mills were established last century — but the creation of a workable yarn remains a kind of magic
During the pre-spinning process of carding, the wool is rubbed to give the fibres just enough structure to withstand the stress of being spun.
These ‘slubbings’ are moved from the carding machine to the spinning frame on spools and can easily be pulled apart as the threads are only loosely organised. That all changes during the spinning process, though.
As many spools of wool are spun at the same time, the trick is ensuring consistency of weight and thickness across them all.
Harris Tweed Hebrides produce two different yarn weights, which are then used for the different types of Harris Tweed cloth produced by the company.
During set-up, the spools of wool are placed at the top of the vertical machine and the threads are led down through a part of the machine called the ‘twister’ and then onto the ‘cops’ for spinning.
Here, they are guided into position by small plastic clips called ‘travellers’. These unprepossessing clips really do punch above their weight — for they influence the heaviness of the eventual yarn — allowing the formation of a solid yarn package onto each of the plastic tubes at the bottom of the spinning frame.
The heavier travellers, coloured green, result in a heavier yarn being produced, as they ease out the wool while it is being spun on the cop. The yellow travellers are used when the wool is gauged to be too light and the red travellers when it is just right.
The weight of the yarn can also be adjusted by changing the settings on the machine’s sizing wheel but the clips give that little bit of extra control.
An array of drums and rollers keeps everything moving along but there can be as many as 16 spools per frame spinning at once on each of the five spinning frames in the Harris Tweed Hebrides mill.
The spinners have to keep the frame going at the right speed and under the right tension in order to get good yarn at the end.
John Mackay, the Spinning Manager at the mill and a spinner for 40 years in the UK textile industry, said: “The challenge is making sure the size is roughly the same. If you’re too heavy in one set and too light in another set, it wouldn’t work on the tweeds.”
So, he said, “you size everything”.
This means taking the sizing stick, which measures exactly one yard, and taking off a total of 60 yards from different spools for weighing. If too heavy or too light, then changes need to be made.
At the end of spinning, the yarn — which has lengthened by around a third — is wound onto the distinctive bobbins which sit at the bottom of the spinning frame.
Here, the yarn waits to be taken to the yarn store and the warping frames, where the embryonic pattern of the tweed will be mapped out.